Caprionline Insider Guides

Recommended insider experiences for the Island of Capri.
Get the best tips, itineraries, and accommodations to discover your Capri!

What's it like living on the island of Capri in the winter?

What's it like living on the island of Capri in the winter?

Every time I tell one of my friends on the mainland that I now live on the Island of Capri all year round, their reaction ranges from an astonished "How on earth do you manage to live on Capri in the winter?" to a puzzled "What do you want to do that for, the place is deserted isn't it?" to a sincerely concerned "Aren't you worried you'll end up getting seriously depressed?"

To be honest, that's exactly the kind of thing I had found myself wanting to ask the islanders years ago, when, at the tender age of 15, I visited Capri on a cold and grey January morning, when almost every bar, shop, restaurant and hotel I came across was "closed for the winter season".

15 years later, on a sunny September morning, I arrived on Capri for what was to be my first day's work at Caprionline. On that occasion, I struggled to wade my way through lanes, flooded with tourists. The tourists continued to arrive in their hundreds, if not thousands, for the whole of September and October, to such an extent that, when, on one particularly warm and bright November morning, Capri woke up to discover that the morning ferries had all arrived half-empty, the island and the islanders all seemed to sigh one huge sigh of relief.

All of a sudden, you could actually see what the lanes of Capri looked like! And, walking down the zigzagging Via Krupp, you could finally see the sea ... nothing but the sea, without a yacht, motorboat or dinghy in sight. In the Piazzetta, elderly islanders sat quietly reading the newspapers in the sun, at tables which, only days before, had been submerged in a hoard of holidaymakers. Capri was back.

It was when the icy winter rain came, and Capri wrapped her protective arms around all those who had not abandoned her, that I decided I too would stay.

As a winter resident, I was immediately made to feel one of the gang (an authentic islander!), and people who had previously ignored me, suddenly greeted me as if I was an old school chum.

Yes, it's true, the island's famous boutiques are all closed in the winter (the average islander doesn't shop at Prada, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci or Louis Vuitton anyway), but the grocery shops, supermarkets, a handful of bars and a couple of (good!) pizzerias and restaurants stay open throughout the year.

And the nightlife? "Do it yourself or don't do anything" sums it up nicely!

Transportation is limited in winter: the funicular railway is closed and you'll have to use local buses to get around. By the way, if you want to spend a night on the mainland, you'll need to be at the port by 20.00 hrs, when the last ferry to Naples sets sail. Miss that boat, and it's just you, the sea and "the rock".

No! Do I miss the glitz and glamour of the celebrity-packed Piazzetta? Sometimes! But then, I go for a walk through the breathtakingly beautiful and blissfully tourist-free Capri and can't help thinking how very lucky I am to experience this tiny Italian island winter, spring, summer and fall; 365 days a year.

Have a question? Ask us!

Recommended experiences and tours

Oasi Motor - Rent your scooter online - Full Day (6 hours) Pick

Transport and Rental

Rent your scooter online - Full Day (6 hours)

Book online to reserve your scooter for your day on Capri!
Your scooter will be waiting for you to hop on.
From 10am to 4pm: visit Capri while skipping the long lines and waits for public transportation...at an excellent price.

By Oasi Motor

from € 40 € 55 -27% Per scooter
Capri Relax Transfers - Private transfer "from Naples to your hotel in Capri" Pick

Transport and Rental

Private transfer "from Naples to your hotel in Capri"

Travel in style with a private and exclusive transfer organized by Capri Relax Boats... 24h/24h.

The service includes:

- Sedan or minivan Mercedes (from airport, station, hotel)
- Speedboat "Itama 38" (12 mt | Naples-Capri)
- Open-top taxi Capri (from the port to the hotel)

By Capri Relax Transfers

from € 750 Per transfer, not per person.

Andrea Albanese

(Amministratore Unico)

Capri Relax Transfers - Private transfers from and to Capri Pick

Transport and Rental

Private transfers from and to Capri

Travel in total relax with a private transfer organized by Capri Relax Boats by speedboats "Itama 38" (12 mt)... 24h/24h

By Capri Relax Transfers

from € 450 Per transfer. Up to 9 persons.

Andrea Albanese

(Amministratore Unico)

Ciro Capri Boats - Boat Tour of Capri Pick

Excursions by sea

Boat Tour of Capri

Boat tour around the island of Capri on board a traditional 7.5 meter "gozzo" boat, with a large cushioned sundeck

By Ciro Capri Boats

from € 140 From 1 to 6 passengers

Ciro Gargiulo

(Proprietario)

Capri Relax Boats - Tour of the Isle of Capri by boat "Fratelli Aprea 7.80" Pick

Excursions by sea

Tour of the Isle of Capri by boat "Fratelli Aprea 7.80"

Do you really want to enjoy the blue sea of Capri?
The best option is to book a private boat to sail around the island!
With its discreet charm the "Fratelli Aprea 7.80 open cruise" is the model that more than others represents the tradition and the classic line of Gozzo Sorrentino.

By Capri Relax Boats

from € 150 Per boat. Up to 7 persons.

Andrea Albanese

(Amministratore Unico)

Capri Blue Boats - Tour of Capri from Marina Piccola on a Gozzo Pick

Excursions by sea

Tour of Capri from Marina Piccola on a Gozzo

Boat tour of the island of Capri with skipper departing from Marina Piccola. Duration: 2.5 hours.

By Capri Blue Boats

€ 150 max 7 people

Raffaele Lembo

(Owner)

Museums

Capri Philosophical Park

A Philosophical Retreat along the Migliera Path.

Entertainment

Kaos Music Lab

March to a different drum!