Want to come to Capri in the autumn or winter, but worried you'll find everything closed? Here are a few insider tips for those keen to discover a different kind of Capri: wild, romantic, and almost completely tourist-free!
From the end of October to the week before Easter, most of the businesses on the island that cater to tourists close for the season, and only the shops, cafès, and restaurants that locals use remain open.
- Check the weather and sea forecasts: ferry routes may be temporarily suspended when sea conditions are unfavorable in the autumn and winter, so take the time to check the weather forecast before travelling. If you've decided to come to Capri in the winter, the best way to get here is by ferry or fast ferry (operated by Caremar). The boats may be a little slower than hydrofoils, but they are cheaper and, more importantly, whilst hydrofoil services are almost always cancelled when the sea is rough, ferries invariably continue to sail. Bear in mind that from January to March Capri's funicular railway is closed and the service replaced by a bus. Ferry times to and from Capri
- Pack for Cool Temperatures: despite what you may think, it's not summer all year round on Capri! Though temperatures are never polar, the wind and damp can be problematic if you have not packed accordingly!
- Stay in a B&B: The majority of Capri's hotels are closed from early November until Easter. This said, there is an ever growing number of B&Bs on the island, nearly all of which stay open all-year-round. To find out who's open and who's not, check out our online booking site: Find a hotel on the island of Capri
To find updated information about ferry routes, contact the ferry company call centers directly.
Snav: 081 4285555
Navigazione Libera del Golfo: 081 5520763
This Facebook page has updates in Italian regarding departures when sea conditions are rough.
Walk of course! Make sure you stroll through the Gardens of Augustus, which is free during the winter. One of the best walks is along Via Tragara with its fabulous view of the Faraglioni at the end from the Belvedere di Tragara .
Another all-year-round attraction is the chairlift to Monte Solaro. In the winter, the chairlift is open until 4 pm. On a clear winter's day (without the risk of summer haze!) the view from the summit is particularly spectacular. Don't be lazy: by all means, take the chairlift up to the top of the mountain, but make the descent in foot, via the pretty cliff edge church of Cetrella. On your way down, stop at Villa San Michele, open all year round.
If the weather is fine and the sea is calm, you can visit the Blue Grotto. Inquire at the Tourist Information Office in the Piazzetta or Marina Grande (081 837 0686) if the grotto is open. Don't despair if the ticket offices for the tour boats are closed! Just ask fishermen in Marina Grande, and you'll find that there is always someone available to take you.
On warm days, you can even bask in the sun on the Marina Piccola beach, located on the south side of the island where the wind is less harsh and the temperature always a few degrees warmer than elsewhere on the island. It's not unusual to find islanders swimming all year round.
This photos was taken January 15th:
One advantage of coming to Capri in the winter is that the usual tourist traps are all closed and your chances of living and eating like a local are blissfully high! At the base of the clocktower in the Piazzetta, you'll find a list of open restaurants. Here's our list of tried and trusted winter watering holes:
- E' Di Vino: a restaurant-wine bar hidden away in a little lane off Via Le Botteghe. Once a private home, the beds, sofas and traditional kitchen table of which are still on show, the restaurant has a distinctly vintage feel - as does the menu, comprised of old fashioned vegetable soups, stockfish, and semolina puddings....? - Address: Vico Sella Orta, 10/a Tel: +39 0818378364 - Closed Tuesday
- Verginello: a simple restaurant famous for its good honest food and a view of the Bay of Naples guaranteed to take your breath away. Needless to say, the locals love it. Verginello does a great pizza too, available at both lunch and dinner. - Address: Via Lo Palazzo, 25/A (at the bottom of the steps next to the post office on via Roma) - Tel: +39 081 8370944
- La Piazzetta: don't be fooled by the name, you won't find this restaurant in Capri's famous square but rather in Marina Piccola. Whilst in the summer months, meals are served in the terrace facing the Faraglioni, in the winter customers eat inside in the sea-view dining room. On warm winter days, you can ask to eat on one of the few tables outside. The fish dishes are fabulous. Don't dare leave without having tried the souffle: served warm with two little dishes of dark and white chocolate. Want to ease your calorie-induced sense of guilt? Walk back to the center of Capri up the tortuous Via Krupp - Address: Via Marina Piccola 126 - Tel: +39 081 8370944 - Open for lunch only
- Aumm aumm: pizzeria and restaurant in Anacapri open only for dinner all year round.
- Michel'angelo: a restaurant located in center of Capri town, open in the winter months where you can also join cooking classes and order freshly prepared picnic packages. Special events and other entertainment are held during the off-season.
The only bar in the Piazzetta to stay open throughout the winter is the Piccolo Bar. A great choice for a shot of hot coffee or warming aperitif, both in and outside (the bar has some incredibly effective patio heaters!).